Blog for September 9, 2023
Zubiri to Pamplona
After 3 full days on the Camino, I have learned a couple of things. One is to keep your eyes peeled for signs that you are still on the right trail. Sometimes the clue is a yellow arrow, sometimes it is a painted yellow scallop shell, sometimes it simply says Camino de Santiago. Most places are marked fairly well, but on occasion the markings are sparse and pilgrims get nervous because we sure don’t want to walk any extra miles that are not necessary. I did download an app that shows my location up against the trail, so when I am walking in the dark that gives me some peace of mind that I haven’t strayed off the path. That’s like the map God has given us – His Word helps us to stay on the right path that leads us to Heaven.
The second thing I have learned is that all Pilgrims greet each other with the words, “Buen Camino!” I could tell you what that means, but I’m not going to – that’s your homework assignment before the next blog. And then you can share the meaning with each other.
The walk was around 14 miles with the last 2-3 miles taking place on sidewalks in the city. I believe Pamplona is the largest city on the Camino, with a population of 200,000. It is where the “running of the bulls” famously happens every July, and also a place where Ernest Hemingway did a lot of his writing. Honestly the last miles on the pavement and concrete, even though flat, were really hard.
In comparison to the quaint French and Spanish villages I have visited, this atmosphere is like a madhouse. I am staying in a hostel run by the Catholic Church. Last night I had 7 roomies; tonight I have 27, with it being mixed company. The bathroom is also mixed. Yikes! Out of my comfort zone! The showers and toilets have stalls around them, but from my background, bathrooms for mixed company are a bit weird. Don’t tell anyone, but I may actually not take a shower at this stop – the thought of potentially having to shower between two women I have never met just makes me think that I and others around me will have to put up with my smelly body for another 24 hours! But the cost is reasonable – 11 euros or $11.77. Definitely budget friendly.
Tomorrow was supposed to be my zero-miles day — my body needs it, but the hostel requires everyone to be out by 8:30 and I would have to wander around with my bag until recheck in time between 1:00 and 2:00. So for my zero day, I will move on. I have made reservations at a closer village than the normal leg which means I will only have to walk 11 miles tomorrow, which is doable and definitely a lighter-than-normal day.
Thanks again to those who are reaching out with words of encouragement. So far, no one has asked me to return from Spain to get a snake out from under their deck or a chipmunk from their downspouts, or an opossum from their basement, so it’s all good!
Approximate total miles: 560
Miles walked today: 14
Remaining miles: 515



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